2004 – Postcard 5 - Holiday within a holiday
We have just spent a wonderful week with our friends Martin and Nikki. They sail their own boat on the shallow east coast of England and we were keen to show them the very different conditions out here; it is difficult to grasp that there is usually a hundred metres of warm blue water under the keel only a hundred metres off shore. We introduced them to a little of Turkey and the beautiful area around Göçek and Fethiye, some of the bays in the Skopea Limani, swimming off the boat and eating at simple beach restaurants.
Landing from our anchorage in Boynüz Bükü we scrambled along a dry river valley and up into the hills in search of the great waterfalls inland. They took some finding and turned out to be water dribbles but we all enjoyed the adventure.
Boynüz Bükü - At the water fall
Boynüz Bükü - Nothing better than a beer after a stiff walk
A highlight was our visit to Kaya Köyü. Our friends John and Bea met us at Gemiler beach and drove us in their Land Rover up through the pine forests pausing to take in spectacular views. We first visited the Ancient and Royal Kaya Croquet Club which we had heard a lot about but never seen. This was built by John and other ex-pats and is used each Saturday night in the summer season for good sport and great eats (provided by Bea). We were mightily impressed, particularly with the heli-pad. John said that a helicopter had landed there once - I think he was serious. We then "did" the ruins of the deserted village; the largest such settlement in Asia Minor. There were twenty-five thousand Greek inhabitants until 1923 when its population was forcibly evicted and exchanged for Macedonian Turks. The village was never re-settled and wandering round the ruins is a poignant experience. Louis de Bernières has just published his latest novel based on the episode. We took some time walking around the settlement and the visit was truly memorable. We were more than ready though for the beer and pancakes at the end.
The pavillion at the Ancient and Royal Kaya Croquet Club
We spent our last night together in the south-east corner of Skopea Limani. We had been told there was a small jetty and restaurant and the people were helpful and pleasant. A magnificent seagull has been built of painted stones above the beach. Ahmed runs the restaurant and is a delightful chap. He was very keen we shouldn't come too late to supper and we were told to present ourselves by 7.30; after the wind died down and before the light failed. The meal as ever was simple but delicious. Afterwards a friend of Ahmed's arrived with his saz and we were entertained to some Turkish "country music". A wonderful evening.
Seagull Bay - Skopea Limani