2004 – Postcard from Turkey (2)
We are meandering along the coast of Turkey visiting old and new anchorages. What a beautiful country this is, particularly for yachtsmen. One of our favourite spots is Fethiye Körfezi (bay) with the adjacent Skopea Limani. This is a cruising paradise. There are many little bays to anchor in, some with a small primitive restaurant, some without. There is also the town of Fethiye and village of Göçek. We are particularly fond of Fethiye. It is the largest town in this area and has a wonderful market. In this square there are restaurants that will cook the fish that you buy at the fish stall and provide salad and drinks for a very reasonable price. It's fun and has a good atmosphere. We also have friends who live in the area, John and Bea, whom we meet up with when we arrive and catch up on the local gossip. We wouldn't want to belittle Göçek either as we have friends who are as fond of this smaller town as we are of Fethiye. This visit we had the pleasure of meeting John and Bea as well as falling over friends from the rally, Rodney and Suzie of Glenlyon. We all eat together in the market place. Later we anchored just outside Fethiye marina next to Glenlyon and I had a bridge lesson (Barry opted out of this!) which was followed by a delicious barbecue on Glenlyon.
16 July 2004 - We dragged ourselves away and crossed Fethiye Körfezi to 22 Fathom Bay; a new anchorage for us. There was a cross wind when we arrived which made us a little nervous about mooring. We have to drop anchor, back towards the shore, then the plan is that I leave the anchor business at the bow, leap off the stern, rope between my teeth (almost) and swim ashore to tie the rope round a rock or tree. Barry has to use the motor to keep the boat from danger. If needed a second line is taken ashore for extra security and in this case we did. We relaxed for the afternoon. At 2030, supper was on the stove and the steaks were ready to be fried when we noticed a gulet very near our bow. We stopped all cooking and went on deck to observe. This gulet seemed to be right over our anchor. We waited and sure enough felt the grate of steel on steel. Skipper Barry eventually made the decision that we were truly dragging and had to move. We got the shore lines on board and then pulled up the anchor. It was weighty! We pulled up not just our anchor but the very large gulet's anchor too. I surprised myself by calling to the gulet in an authoritive voice to send a boat to help. And they did immediately. We looped their anchor with a rope and with some manipulation untangled it and dropped it. We were free and motored away to review the situation. What we then observed was that the next boat, also with an English crew, had to lift their anchor as the gulet's anchor was laid over their chain as well. Not bad going - two fouled anchors in one go. The gulet did not stay the night and disappeared to another bay while we two boats re-moored with the assistance of friendly neighbours and the gulet's dinghy crew, who turned out to be extremely helpful. That's cruising. Supper was eaten at 2200.
18 July 2004 - We tied up at a small jetty in Bozuk Bükü and for a while we were the only boat. It was very peaceful and the small restaurant run by a family provided satisfying local food and Turkish bread. A pleasant stay.
Bozuk Bükü - our local
Bozuk Bükü - Grandma and Grandpa arrive
Anchor problems are a classic entertainment (if others have them) or problem (if you are involved) when sailing in this area. When anchoring in a small round or oval harbour or bay it is obvious that anchors will land crossing in the middle from time to time. One of our next stops was in Bozburun another favourite of ours. It is not too touristy and a delightful harbour with just sufficient shops and restaurants, showers and laundry facilities to satisfy any yachtsman. And not exhorbitantly priced. We were very comfortable here but not so our French neighbours for one night. They arrived about 1800. At about 1900 the boat on their starboard side started to leave only to pick up the French boat's anchor. They were kind enough to drop it far enough out to prevent our neighbours having to re-moor. The next morning a gulet arrived and dropped its anchor across our neighbour's chain yet again. "Notre ancre est vraiment maudite" observed the wife. They wisely waited for the gulet to leave and release them, then went for lunch before moving on.